Weihnachten kann kommen

Dass ich im September schon Weihnachtsgeschenke fertig habe, hätte ich mir nie träumen lassen.

Aber das Thema hat mich so gebannt, dass ich nicht davon lassen konnte und mittlerweile 8 Paar gestrickt sind.

Zwar bin ich noch immer nicht schneller, als am Anfang und brauche pro Handschuh allein zum Stricken etwa 2 Stunden, und dann nochmal 2 zum Fäden vernähen. Aber ich muss wenigstens dabei nicht mehr so viel nachdenken. Und das ist doch auch schon was :-)

Nachtrag vom 02.September 2016

Weil ich die pdf Anleitung aus diversen Gründen bei Ravelry stillgelegt habe und es doch immer wieder Nachfragen vor allem für die englische Version gibt, habe ich mich entschlossen, diese nun hier zu zeigen. Leider kann man auf dem Blog nicht einfach eine pdf Datei parken. Deshalb bleibt für alle nur eine Möglichkeit: Paste and Copy. Trotzdem...viel Spaß beim Nachstricken ( und meinem seltsamen Englisch ;-) )
Dear friends,
because of several reasons this instruction of my faire isle gloves patttern is no longer available at Ravelry.
But if you want to have a try- go ahead and past and copy.

IngridCojocaru© Fair isle gloves made of sockwoool, 210m/ 50g, size 7-7,5

After lots of experiments I finally succeeded to knit gloves with Fair Isle pattern that fit at least my hands. Comparing some measurement -lists I found out that mine are a bit different.

That shows you already that you have to compare and measure yourself and that there is no perfect fit without a swatch. All hands are unique and wool is not wool.

I will not explain knitting techniques like cast on, Fair Isle, knitting in rounds and so on. This is perfectly described in the instruction books. So, this is for sure not an instruction for beginners on knitting machines.

What you need is about 50g of sock wool for main color and about 25 g for pattern color and an electronic machine with ribber like KH 930. This pattern is not made for punch cards.

For sure you can knit gloves on punch card machines as well with this instruction; you just have to create your own pattern, because this one has 62 stitches and 35 rows.

For having the result you can see, the best is to have a pattern, which is as wide as the glove itself.  It has 2 sides: lefts side for the upper hand, right side for the inner hand. The left one is a self-made one, the right one is nr 25 from the yellow pattern Stitch World Book.

In case you are using this pattern, don’t forget to reflect the pattern on the machine with button 1, when you start knitting the second glove!.

The layout of the pattern goes perfectly along with my size (7 to 7,5)

The swatch in Faire Isle with tension 6

10 cm = 35 rows/ 10 cm = 32 stitches

The swatch in rounds MW6/6-I

10 cm = 40 rows/ 10 cm = 37 stitches.

Note:   further down I am saying “Pic up one more stitch out of the transverse thread”             That means to increase one stitch!

For a better understanding here some general explanations and a graphic of what we are going to do.

Red are the parts you will knit (9)

Green are the rows before decreasing

Black are the number of stitches

Part 1: You start with a ribbing, however you like it (1/1 or 2/2)

The number of needles is equal to the number of needles you need at the widest part of the hand right under the fingers (circumference)

Part 2: you knit on the mainbed in Faire Isle technique until the beginning of the smallest finger.

Part 3 is the small finger itself, you knit it in rounds with the ribber. Therefore you first knit with waste yarn all those needles which are not needed, each side separated from the other. 14 needles stay in the middle. 7 of them tranfer to the ribber and do the small finger.

For doing part 4 you bring back those stitches which have waste yarn. Half of them to the main bed, second half to the ribber, knit 6 rows in rounds.

Part 5, 6 and 7 are the 3 remaining fingers which are done like the small one (part3).

Part 8 is that part which gives the thumb the possibility to move and it’s worked in between the seem, like a little triangle. We call it a “ Daumenspickel” and because I could not find a translation, I will use this word, ok?

Finally we do part 9, the rest of the thumb, again knitted in rounds.

Windrad/Pinwheel

Pin wheel shawl with 11 segments Windradtuch mit 11 Segmenten in Englisch  final version :-) ©by ingridcojocaru

©by ingridcojocaru

This is the first pattern I ever wrote down and with the help of a dear friend I tried to translate it…so don’t be surprised if there are some weird phrases J

In case you want to knit this shawl, you should be familiar with the short-row-technique.

As all instructions, reading is a little bit confusing, but be sure…once you’ve started knitting, all becomes clear and understandable.

What you need:

Sockyarn with 210m/ 50g in different colors

Color 1 about 250-300 g (dark blue)

Color 2 about 150 g (white)

Color 3 about 150g (mottled, white with blue and grey)

Color 4 some extra yarn for the weaving rows ( white), 50 g should be enough.

Waste yarn, Nyloncord, a second tension arm from a colorchanger, lots of claw weights

I knitted on a Brother kh 930 with tension 8.

My shawl has 11 sections. I had to finish before it was a complete circle because I run out of the white yarn L. If you have enough yarn, just knit some more sections until it’s round or stop earlier if you just want a half circle.

For a better understanding, first of all a general overview what you are going to do:

1.You start with waste yarn and knit 1 row with nyloncord. Or do your favorite cast on, knit some rows and do a picot hem or whatever you prefer. Work some bottonholes if you want to close the shawl in the front and wear it as a cape. That’s all up to you.

2. knit 2 rows plain in main color, set up the needles for a rolled edge (if you like that, instruction further down)

3. weave 2 rows over all needles ( instructions further down)

4. knit 1 complete segment.

5. knit 2 rows plain in main color,

6. Swap color 2 with color 3 ( and in the next segment backwards color 3 to color 2)

7. knit 1 complete segment

Repeat the steps 5, 6 and 7 until you have the amount of segments you like.

After the last section, knit again 2 rows in main color and do your finishing the same way as you started.

General information about the sections:

The sections themselves are divided in three colorfields (color 1,2,3). Each of the 3 colors needs a third of the whole amount of needles which are in use. Each section is separated from the following section by 2 rows of handmanipulated weaved rows over all needles. If you like theses stripes a little bit wider, weave 4 or 6 rows. I used for this weaving part a white ribbon yarn, but any other kind of yarn ( novelty yarns) which is thicker than your main yarn can be used as well.

With this shawl, you can run your fantasie wild and play around as much as you like. I swaped only color 2 and 3. That means: in section 1: c 1, than 2, than 3, in section 2: c 1, than 3, than 2, in section 3 again like in the first. That makes this wonderful effect.

Before I start with the instruction remember this notes:

Take away the ribber bed. Working is much easier without it. Believe me J

When you start the first section, take out the comb and substitute it with lots of claw weights.

Here now the “how to’s

The rolled edge:

At the right side of the machine remove needles like this: IIIIIIIII..III..II

If you do so, you produce two little gaps where you can pull through the fringes you’ve done while

knitting and roll in the seam at the same time.

The fringes can be produced at the same time as you knit (see instructions further down).

In case you don’t like fringes, don’t do the rolled edge and think of another decorative solution for  the

lower end of the shawl. As I said before….there are many possibilities 

I decorated the first gap with the weaving yarn and fixed the fringes with a knot through the lower gap

The fringes:

When you change the color, take the yarn and place it right under the bracket that normally holds the ribber bed. Every 50 or 60 rows cut the fringes in the middle, otherwise the shawl will be lifted up and that will cause a chaos. Don’t cut them all, just leave the last 6 or so uncut. That saves you from holding the yarn by hand when you start the next row. When you finished your shawl, cut the fringes all the same length.

Take the yarn out of the feeder, move it behind the bracket and “park”it behind the carriage ( right side). Bring the new color in the feeder, knit and check at the same time, that the other two threads stay in the little gap under the machine.

The weaving part in general:

Bring the weaving pattern lever to WT.

Start on the left side of bed and bring up needles with the needle pusher to D like this I..I..I..I..I..

Make sure, the needle lashes are open.

Place the weaving yarn by hand over the open needles and knit (weave) one row

Start again on the left side of bed and repeat bringing up needles to D like this II..I..I..I..I..I.. 

Once again place the weaving yarn over the open needles, knit 1 row,

break the yarn and leave it as long as you want the fringes. 

Now you can start with the sections.

As I said before, each section is knitted in several steps. The section itself is devided in 3 parts ( three colors) which are going to be knitted one after the other. Therefore you have to 1.change every 2 rows the color and 2. move a certain amount of needles in or out of working position. The numbers you find in the list.

Print out the list, set your needles, do your personal cast on over 94/90 needles, knit your personal hem and

Knit the first 2 rows in main color1, plain.

Do 2 ( or more) rows in weaving technique ( see instructions or do it your personal style)

Set up the carriage: weaving knobs back to neutral and carriage to H ( holding position)

Row counter to 000

From now on you will push up the named needle number of the list  up to E-position, knit , than the next amount and again and than push the named amount back to D to make them knit again, as usual for short row technique. Sounds complicated, but once you’ve “got” the system, it’s easy.

Have a look at the list. It shows you, which needles do not work ( E-position). Named needle numbers don’t work ( they are in E), all others knit.

Row 1: all needles knit in color 1 ( B Position)

Row 2: push up nr 94 left, knit to the right, make a fringe and bring color 2 into the feeder.

Row 3: Push up  needles from 94 left to 32 left ( E-position), knit 1 row ( 94 is already up, I know, but it’s easier to explain, if I write it down again J)

Row 4: Push up needle nr 31 left to E (to avoid a gap), knit back. RC is on 4. Make a

fringe and change to color 3

Row 5: Push up needles 94 left to 28 right to pos E and knit 1 row.

Row 6: Bring up needle 29 right to E (additional needle to avoid gaps), and knit back RC is now on 6. Make a fringe and change to color 1

Row 7: Now you push back almost all the needles in position D, only 94 left to 91 left stay in E ( have a look at the list)

Knit 1 row

Row 8: bring up needle 90 left in E (additional needle to avoid gaps), knit back, RC is on 8. Make a fringe and change to color 2.

Now you can continue by following the numbers in the list.

Once you’ve done the whole list, the first segment is finished

*Put your carriage on N and knit 2 rows in main color (1)

Weave 2 rows

Swap color 2 with color 3 ( means: instead of using color 2, take color 3 and opposit

Carriage back on H and start with the list again.*

Important notes: Don’t forget  to push up the additional needle to avoid holes. 

In the list it’s mentioned only up to row 18!

Always check if the additional needle really has been knitted before you push it up to E!

And: don’t forget  to bring up the claw weights… especially  in the areas where the colors change within the segment! 

	color 1	color 2	color 3
rows	Left side of zero	First left than right	Right side of zero	rows
1	all			1
2	94 left  to E			2
3		94 left-32 left  to E		3
4		94 left-31left  to E		4
5			94 left-28 right to E	5
6			94 left- 29 right to E	6
7	94-91 left  to E			7
8	94-90 left  to E			8
9		94 – 29 left  to E		9
10		94 – 28 left  to E		10
11			94-31 right to E	11
12			94-32 right to E	12
13	94- 88 left  to E			13
14	94-87 left  to E			14
15		94- 26 left		15
16		94- 25 left		16
17			94- 34 r	17
18			94- 35 r	18
19	94-85 left			19
20				20
21		94- 23 left		21
22				22
23			94- 37 r	23
24				24
25	94- 82 left			25
26				26
27		94- 20 left		27
28				28
29			94-40 r	29
30				30
31	79  left			31
32				32
33		94- 17  left		33
34				34
35			94- 43 r	35
36				36
37	76 left			37
38				38
39		94-14 left		39
40				40
41			46 r	41
42				42
43	73 left			43
44				44
45		11 left		45
46				46
47			49 r	47
48				48
49	70 left			49
50				50
51		8 left		51
52				52
53			52 r	53
54				54
55	67 left			55
56				56
57		5 left		57
58				58
59			55 r	59
60				60
61	64 left			61
62				62
63		2 left		63
64				64
65			58 r	65
66				66
67	61 left			67
68				68
69		1 right		69
70				70
71			61 r	71
72				72
73	58 left			73
74				74
77		4 right		77
76				76
77			64 r	77
78				78
79	55 left			79
80				80
81		7 right		81
82				82
83			67 r	83
84				84
85	52 left			85
86				86
87		10 right		87
88				88
89			70 r	89
90				90
91	49 left			91
92				92
93		13 right		93
94				94
95			73 r	95
98				98
97	46 left			97
98				98
99		16 right		99
100				100
101			76 r	101
102				102
103	43 left			103
104				104
105		19 right		105
106				106
107			79 r	107
108				108
109	40 left			109
110				110
113		22 right		113
114				114
115			82 r	115
116				116
117	37 left			117
118				118
119		25 right		119
120				120
121			85 r	121
122				122