Windrad/Pinwheel

Pin wheel shawl with 11 segments Windradtuch mit 11 Segmenten in Englisch  final version :-) ©by ingridcojocaru

©by ingridcojocaru

This is the first pattern I ever wrote down and with the help of a dear friend I tried to translate it…so don’t be surprised if there are some weird phrases J

In case you want to knit this shawl, you should be familiar with the short-row-technique.

As all instructions, reading is a little bit confusing, but be sure…once you’ve started knitting, all becomes clear and understandable.

What you need:

Sockyarn with 210m/ 50g in different colors

Color 1 about 250-300 g (dark blue)

Color 2 about 150 g (white)

Color 3 about 150g (mottled, white with blue and grey)

Color 4 some extra yarn for the weaving rows ( white), 50 g should be enough.

Waste yarn, Nyloncord, a second tension arm from a colorchanger, lots of claw weights

I knitted on a Brother kh 930 with tension 8.

My shawl has 11 sections. I had to finish before it was a complete circle because I run out of the white yarn L. If you have enough yarn, just knit some more sections until it’s round or stop earlier if you just want a half circle.

For a better understanding, first of all a general overview what you are going to do:

1.You start with waste yarn and knit 1 row with nyloncord. Or do your favorite cast on, knit some rows and do a picot hem or whatever you prefer. Work some bottonholes if you want to close the shawl in the front and wear it as a cape. That’s all up to you.

2. knit 2 rows plain in main color, set up the needles for a rolled edge (if you like that, instruction further down)

3. weave 2 rows over all needles ( instructions further down)

4. knit 1 complete segment.

5. knit 2 rows plain in main color,

6. Swap color 2 with color 3 ( and in the next segment backwards color 3 to color 2)

7. knit 1 complete segment

Repeat the steps 5, 6 and 7 until you have the amount of segments you like.

After the last section, knit again 2 rows in main color and do your finishing the same way as you started.

General information about the sections:

The sections themselves are divided in three colorfields (color 1,2,3). Each of the 3 colors needs a third of the whole amount of needles which are in use. Each section is separated from the following section by 2 rows of handmanipulated weaved rows over all needles. If you like theses stripes a little bit wider, weave 4 or 6 rows. I used for this weaving part a white ribbon yarn, but any other kind of yarn ( novelty yarns) which is thicker than your main yarn can be used as well.

With this shawl, you can run your fantasie wild and play around as much as you like. I swaped only color 2 and 3. That means: in section 1: c 1, than 2, than 3, in section 2: c 1, than 3, than 2, in section 3 again like in the first. That makes this wonderful effect.

Before I start with the instruction remember this notes:

Take away the ribber bed. Working is much easier without it. Believe me J

When you start the first section, take out the comb and substitute it with lots of claw weights.

Here now the “how to’s

The rolled edge:

At the right side of the machine remove needles like this: IIIIIIIII..III..II

If you do so, you produce two little gaps where you can pull through the fringes you’ve done while

knitting and roll in the seam at the same time.

The fringes can be produced at the same time as you knit (see instructions further down).

In case you don’t like fringes, don’t do the rolled edge and think of another decorative solution for  the

lower end of the shawl. As I said before….there are many possibilities 

I decorated the first gap with the weaving yarn and fixed the fringes with a knot through the lower gap

The fringes:

When you change the color, take the yarn and place it right under the bracket that normally holds the ribber bed. Every 50 or 60 rows cut the fringes in the middle, otherwise the shawl will be lifted up and that will cause a chaos. Don’t cut them all, just leave the last 6 or so uncut. That saves you from holding the yarn by hand when you start the next row. When you finished your shawl, cut the fringes all the same length.

Take the yarn out of the feeder, move it behind the bracket and “park”it behind the carriage ( right side). Bring the new color in the feeder, knit and check at the same time, that the other two threads stay in the little gap under the machine.

The weaving part in general:

Bring the weaving pattern lever to WT.

Start on the left side of bed and bring up needles with the needle pusher to D like this I..I..I..I..I..

Make sure, the needle lashes are open.

Place the weaving yarn by hand over the open needles and knit (weave) one row

Start again on the left side of bed and repeat bringing up needles to D like this II..I..I..I..I..I.. 

Once again place the weaving yarn over the open needles, knit 1 row,

break the yarn and leave it as long as you want the fringes. 

Now you can start with the sections.

As I said before, each section is knitted in several steps. The section itself is devided in 3 parts ( three colors) which are going to be knitted one after the other. Therefore you have to 1.change every 2 rows the color and 2. move a certain amount of needles in or out of working position. The numbers you find in the list.

Print out the list, set your needles, do your personal cast on over 94/90 needles, knit your personal hem and

Knit the first 2 rows in main color1, plain.

Do 2 ( or more) rows in weaving technique ( see instructions or do it your personal style)

Set up the carriage: weaving knobs back to neutral and carriage to H ( holding position)

Row counter to 000

From now on you will push up the named needle number of the list  up to E-position, knit , than the next amount and again and than push the named amount back to D to make them knit again, as usual for short row technique. Sounds complicated, but once you’ve “got” the system, it’s easy.

Have a look at the list. It shows you, which needles do not work ( E-position). Named needle numbers don’t work ( they are in E), all others knit.

Row 1: all needles knit in color 1 ( B Position)

Row 2: push up nr 94 left, knit to the right, make a fringe and bring color 2 into the feeder.

Row 3: Push up  needles from 94 left to 32 left ( E-position), knit 1 row ( 94 is already up, I know, but it’s easier to explain, if I write it down again J)

Row 4: Push up needle nr 31 left to E (to avoid a gap), knit back. RC is on 4. Make a

fringe and change to color 3

Row 5: Push up needles 94 left to 28 right to pos E and knit 1 row.

Row 6: Bring up needle 29 right to E (additional needle to avoid gaps), and knit back RC is now on 6. Make a fringe and change to color 1

Row 7: Now you push back almost all the needles in position D, only 94 left to 91 left stay in E ( have a look at the list)

Knit 1 row

Row 8: bring up needle 90 left in E (additional needle to avoid gaps), knit back, RC is on 8. Make a fringe and change to color 2.

Now you can continue by following the numbers in the list.

Once you’ve done the whole list, the first segment is finished

*Put your carriage on N and knit 2 rows in main color (1)

Weave 2 rows

Swap color 2 with color 3 ( means: instead of using color 2, take color 3 and opposit

Carriage back on H and start with the list again.*

Important notes: Don’t forget  to push up the additional needle to avoid holes. 

In the list it’s mentioned only up to row 18!

Always check if the additional needle really has been knitted before you push it up to E!

And: don’t forget  to bring up the claw weights… especially  in the areas where the colors change within the segment! 

	color 1	color 2	color 3
rows	Left side of zero	First left than right	Right side of zero	rows
1	all			1
2	94 left  to E			2
3		94 left-32 left  to E		3
4		94 left-31left  to E		4
5			94 left-28 right to E	5
6			94 left- 29 right to E	6
7	94-91 left  to E			7
8	94-90 left  to E			8
9		94 – 29 left  to E		9
10		94 – 28 left  to E		10
11			94-31 right to E	11
12			94-32 right to E	12
13	94- 88 left  to E			13
14	94-87 left  to E			14
15		94- 26 left		15
16		94- 25 left		16
17			94- 34 r	17
18			94- 35 r	18
19	94-85 left			19
20				20
21		94- 23 left		21
22				22
23			94- 37 r	23
24				24
25	94- 82 left			25
26				26
27		94- 20 left		27
28				28
29			94-40 r	29
30				30
31	79  left			31
32				32
33		94- 17  left		33
34				34
35			94- 43 r	35
36				36
37	76 left			37
38				38
39		94-14 left		39
40				40
41			46 r	41
42				42
43	73 left			43
44				44
45		11 left		45
46				46
47			49 r	47
48				48
49	70 left			49
50				50
51		8 left		51
52				52
53			52 r	53
54				54
55	67 left			55
56				56
57		5 left		57
58				58
59			55 r	59
60				60
61	64 left			61
62				62
63		2 left		63
64				64
65			58 r	65
66				66
67	61 left			67
68				68
69		1 right		69
70				70
71			61 r	71
72				72
73	58 left			73
74				74
77		4 right		77
76				76
77			64 r	77
78				78
79	55 left			79
80				80
81		7 right		81
82				82
83			67 r	83
84				84
85	52 left			85
86				86
87		10 right		87
88				88
89			70 r	89
90				90
91	49 left			91
92				92
93		13 right		93
94				94
95			73 r	95
98				98
97	46 left			97
98				98
99		16 right		99
100				100
101			76 r	101
102				102
103	43 left			103
104				104
105		19 right		105
106				106
107			79 r	107
108				108
109	40 left			109
110				110
113		22 right		113
114				114
115			82 r	115
116				116
117	37 left			117
118				118
119		25 right		119
120				120
121			85 r	121
122				122

Hello to all,

Actually I did not wanted to fight about the pattern and as I wrote before, I don’t want to have any trouble. But as more days pass, as more it hurts.

That’s why here is just a quick report of what happened in the last days:

   - got an Mail from ravelry that says that Ms Bishop complains, that I had copied her pattern, even the needle numbers were the same and the rows.

  - studied Ms Bishops pattern which I have in hands now carefully.

  - wrote back to Ravelry about the facts ( how I developed the pattern), send some photos I made from my old notebook, knitted the skirt with the rests of the original wool as far as they lasted and now am waiting now for an answer to all this.

In my projects you can see here http://www.ravelry.com/projects/bruchaip/skirt-for-short-row-fans--sideways how the skirt looks when you use those old notes. 

The step to develop the scarf from the skirt was only a small one. All I did, was not knitting the 20 row wide stripes in between which you need for reaching the width of a skirt. Instead of that I knitted just 2 rows and weaved them.

I used all available needles from my machine -94 left to   90right. (all other needles are broken ones)

Miss Bishop uses needles 90 left until 99 right, for another model 90 left until  95 right.

She uses MW 5-7, I use 8.

She knits 60 rows, I have 122.

Her charts look totally different than mine.

Her “middle-field” ends on the very end of the shawl…mine does not. ( as far I could recognize that on the only photo I have seen)…will say: her shawl is really perfectly calculated, mine is not.

30 yellow 2rows	30 red 2 rows	30 blue  2 rows	30n blue
			Each time 20 rows
90 mashes for the length of the pleats			30 mashes for the width around the belly
Swap blue and red after one finished section			Total number of rows depends on the desired width …depending on gauge

If you forget about the last 30 mashes right and knit instead of 20 rows…like I did for getting the width of the skirt- only 2 rows in 4th color, viola - you have the pattern of the shawl. Never mind how many needles you use.

Besides all that you can find already a nice model ( number 33) for stripes in short row technique  in Brother fashion book 2 .In the downloadable Version of the site: www.aboutknittingmashines.com you can find the book , but it has no photo of the model ( the last 3 pages of the book are missing..but the instruction is there) Here is the missing photo taken  from my german book.

Brother fashion book 2, Model 33

So far so good. Many words for a simple sentence: I did not need to copy.

With a little bit of logical thinking and having fun with experiments, you’ll find out yourself, never mind if you use just 90 or even all 200 mashes. The knitting- procedure for a skirt or a shawl is the same after you recalculated your project ( divide amount of needles by 3)

How to knit this skirt you will find soon in my projects.

I hope, none of you who have been knitting the shawl project will have any kind on inconvenience and go on having fun with your knitting machine.

How to knit a skirt sideways with  striped pleats in short row-technique  with colorchanger                                       

A general instruction that can be modified in many ways

To knit a skirt sideways is quiet simple.

All you need is the measures of the length and the width

Then knit your gauge and transform the numbers.

So, let’s say you have

10 cm = 40 rows

10 cm = 29 mashes.

Now you have to answer several questions.

1.      How wide is the waistband ( lets say 5 cm)

2.      Where shall the pleats start? ( lets say after 20 cm from the top including waistband)

3.      If the waistband is 5 cm, then there are 15 cm left, that’s  43,5 mashes.

We have now the exact number of mashes that we need for the pleats (87), but to make it easier to understand I will take 40 mashes for the upper part and 90 for the pleats-part.

For finding the measure for the width you measure around the hip exactly there, where the pleats shall begin ( 20 cm from the waist downwards)

Let’s say it’s 100 cm. You have found now the number of rows you have to knit: 400 rows.

If each stripe is 20 rows high, you have to knit 20 stripes to reach the width and as well in between the 20 multicolored sections

90 Needles left from 0			40 needles right from 0
30 yellow 2rows	30 red 2 rows	30 blue  2 rows	39 plus 1 blue Part A
When stripe section ready, knit over all			each time 20 rows

If you want to make your life easy, use following needles:

For the pleats ( the striped sections) use the needles left from 0, for the “width part” right from 0)

Before you start a general word about knitting short rows.

Knitting short rows means, you push some needles out of work ( E position) in a certain rhythm and take them back, when they are needed again( push back to D)

This is done in 2 steps. First you push up the main part of your rhythm ( if you shorten 3-wise it’s 2 needles) opposite the carriage and you knit one row. Then you bring up the next possible needle to E on the carriage side to avoid a hole and knit back. When you shorten 4-wise it’s 3 plus 1. If you forget to push up 1 additional needle you will have a hole. This additional needle will have than 2 threads.

I decided, to knit 3 wise. That means: each color-field will be shortened by 3 mashes. First the blue area ( 2 rows), than the red area ( 2 rows) and than the yellow one ( 2 rows.)

This step has to be repeated several times. But for being able to knit the blue part again, you have to bring back the needles in working position ( from E to D) first - up to that point where you go on to shorten the blue part ( needle nr.4 and 5 stays in E  and than you take nr. 6 up)

 If you want the pleats not that wide, you are free to change to another rhythm.

Now we are ready to begin:

Start your skirt with waist yarn over 130 mashes( 90 left from 0 and 40 right from 0 ) and knit some rows, if your gauge is the same like mine.

1 row with nylon yarn

11 rows with color 1 ( dark blue) and end with carriage on the left side.

Stripe section with carriage on H ( hold)

Push up to E all needles right side from 0. Those needles will be knitted next, when it’s time to knit 20 rows to reach the width of the skirt.

From now on concentrate on the left side of 0.

push up to E the first 2 needles left side from 0 for the 1. colorfield in blue). That’s nr 1 and 2 left from 0 and knit 1 row.

push up now number 3 left up to E, knit back.

Change to red:

push up left from 0 till number 30 and 31, knit 1 row push up 32,  knit back,

change to yellow

push up to E till number 60 and 61left, knit 1 row, push up 62left, knit back,

change to blue

push all needles back down to working pos ( D) till this one in the blue area which has 2 threads on ( that’s nr 3 left)

The needles with 2 threads on are from now on the orientation point. (Don't be confused... I did the photo at other numbers...sorry!)

Leave this needle in E ( nr 3 left from 0) and push up 2 more ( nr 4 and nr 5 left from 0), knit 1 row,

Push up nr 6 left and knit back.

Change to red

From now on it’s dead easy

Look at the red, find the first red mash 2 rows under, push it to E ( nr 32) ,push left of it 2 more needles to E (33 -34 ) and all that are right of it, knit 1 row, push up 1 more needle( nr 35) and knit back

Change to yellow

Find the first yellow mash 2 rows under and push it to E( nr 62), left of it 2 more needles to E ( 63-64) and all the ones which are on the right side of it), knit 1 row, push up 1 more needle(nr 65) and knit back

Change to blue

All needles back to D up to the one with the 2 threads in the blue field ( nr 3),

Push up to E again 2 needles left of it ( nr 4-5) , knit 1 row, push up 1 more ( nr 6 ), knit back

Repeat this until you have  shortened in the blue field down to that needle with which the red field began ( 30 left)

When you reached with the blue color needle nr 30 left, the first striped section is ready.

Now it’s time to knit the part that gives the width of the skirt( all in all 20 rows).

This part needs to be brought in form as well, because the waist is smaller than the hip ( look at the photo above). Therefore you do following steps:

Bring all needles back in D Pos, except the last 9( nr 40 right till 31 right stay in E), knit 1 row, push up nr 30 right, knit back

Bring up another 9 needles ( nr 29 till 21 right), knit one row, push up nr 20 and knit back

Bring up another 8 needles ( nr 19 till 11 right), knit one row, push up nr 10 and knit back

Bring the carriage on N or push all needles back to D by hand and knit 14 rows over all mashes.

Now start with the 2. striped section.

Change carriage to H  …and start a new section with swaped colours ( red and yellow)

I know, all this sounds  very confusing, but if you’ve done it once, you will understand the system and it will be easy.

Knit 20 sections with always 20 rows in between.

After the last section just knit 10 rows and some rows with waist yarn, than take it from the machine.

Now decide, which side you want to be seen: right side or wrong side. If you decide for right side out:

Hang the skirt back in to the machine ( small side, for sure), facing the right side

If you can’t make it in one, because there are not enough needles, work it in two parts and close the sides carefully with mash stitch.

Knit 20 rows, 1 row with a bigger mashwidth, knit again 20 rows with normal MW.

1 row Nylon yarn, some rows with waist yarn and take it down.

Fold the waistband and fix it with step-stitch on the skirt.

Close the skirt up to the waistband

Bring in a rubberband and sew it together

Now close the waistband with mashstitch

For a nice seam, I crochet once around

		left from 0	part around hip all n right from 0
			40
		1-2 + 3
	30-31 +32
60-61 +62
		4-5 +6
	33-34 + 35
63-64 + 65
		7-8 + 9
	36-37 +38
66-67 + 68
		10-11 + 12
	39-40-+ 41
69 70 + 71
		13-14 + 15
	42-43 + 44
72-73 + 74
		16-17 + 18
	45-46 + 47
75-76 + 77
		19-20 + 21
	48-49 + 50
78-79 + 80
		22-23 + 24
	51-52 + 53
81-82 + 83
		25-26 + 27
	54-55 + 56
84-85 +86
		28-29 + 30
	57-58 +60
87-88 +89

This is a pattern can be adapted for all sizes and all length and is very variable.

If you want it longer, take more needles and calculate a little bit.

If you want it wider, knit more sections and rows or knit instead of 20 rows 30 or more.

Really, you can manipulate this pattern how you want  it. You can even make it as a shawl.

All you do is, to divide the mash numbers by three and forget about the upper part for a skirt. For example: If you take 180 needles  ( perfect to divide by 3), you will get 3 parts with each 60 mashes. If you place your project exactly in the middle of the machine, you end up at following needle numbers: From needle 90 right to 30 right it’s part one in Blue From needle 30 right to 30 left it’s part 2 in Red From needle 30 left to 90 left it’s part 3 in Yellow

For the skirt I did after the colored section plain knitting over 20 rows to reach the needed width for the skirt. But for a shawl you don’t need this extra width. Already on this small example on the left side, you can see, what happens, if you use this method.

here I just pinned the pleats together

If you take instead of 20 rows  just two rows in a different color (white in the shawl) and do those in may be another technique ( weaving), you will produce this “separating line” which gives it a look of a pinwheel.

If you want the red (middle) field to end exactly at the bottom, you just knit some more rows until you have no more yellow to knit.

I did not pay attention to this while I was doing the skirt as you can see because the pleats disappear anyway in the background. In the next section swap red against the yellow

and do the same.

When you knit with contrasting colors you don’t even need a written chart, because you can see exactly where to put 2 more needles ( and for the way back the third one to avoid a hole) to E: ( look at the photos further up).

With colors that are not that contrasting like mine at the skirt, it could be necessary to create yourself a chart, especially when you use mottled yarn as I did on the shawl. Remember when you write it, that the numbers on the right side from the bed count downwards and left from the 0 upwards.

Make yourself a chart like this

3. color	2. color left from 0	2. color right from 0	1.      color	Row-numbers
mashnr from 30 left to 90 left	mashnr  to 30 left	from 30 right	mash nr from 90 to 30 right
			90-89 knit +88 knit back	1 + 2
		30-29 knit +28 knit back		3+4
30-31 knit,32 knit back				5+6
Push back needles to D up to                                            87-86 knit +85 knit                         back				7+8
		27-26 +25		9 + 10
33-34 + 35				11+12
Push back needles to D up to                                            84-83knit +82 knit                         back				13+14

And so on. Do this until the 1 color field reaches the 1. Number of the 3. Colorfield ( 30 left)

And you are ready to knit your own shawl.

As more mashes you use, as nicer the pinwheel is to be seen.

Go ahead and start and have lots of fun

© by bruchaip Ingrid Cojocaru 2013