Weihnachten kann kommen

Dass ich im September schon Weihnachtsgeschenke fertig habe, hätte ich mir nie träumen lassen.

Aber das Thema hat mich so gebannt, dass ich nicht davon lassen konnte und mittlerweile 8 Paar gestrickt sind.

Zwar bin ich noch immer nicht schneller, als am Anfang und brauche pro Handschuh allein zum Stricken etwa 2 Stunden, und dann nochmal 2 zum Fäden vernähen. Aber ich muss wenigstens dabei nicht mehr so viel nachdenken. Und das ist doch auch schon was :-)

Nachtrag vom 02.September 2016

Weil ich die pdf Anleitung aus diversen Gründen bei Ravelry stillgelegt habe und es doch immer wieder Nachfragen vor allem für die englische Version gibt, habe ich mich entschlossen, diese nun hier zu zeigen. Leider kann man auf dem Blog nicht einfach eine pdf Datei parken. Deshalb bleibt für alle nur eine Möglichkeit: Paste and Copy. Trotzdem...viel Spaß beim Nachstricken ( und meinem seltsamen Englisch ;-) )
Dear friends,
because of several reasons this instruction of my faire isle gloves patttern is no longer available at Ravelry.
But if you want to have a try- go ahead and past and copy.

IngridCojocaru© Fair isle gloves made of sockwoool, 210m/ 50g, size 7-7,5

After lots of experiments I finally succeeded to knit gloves with Fair Isle pattern that fit at least my hands. Comparing some measurement -lists I found out that mine are a bit different.

That shows you already that you have to compare and measure yourself and that there is no perfect fit without a swatch. All hands are unique and wool is not wool.

I will not explain knitting techniques like cast on, Fair Isle, knitting in rounds and so on. This is perfectly described in the instruction books. So, this is for sure not an instruction for beginners on knitting machines.

What you need is about 50g of sock wool for main color and about 25 g for pattern color and an electronic machine with ribber like KH 930. This pattern is not made for punch cards.

For sure you can knit gloves on punch card machines as well with this instruction; you just have to create your own pattern, because this one has 62 stitches and 35 rows.

For having the result you can see, the best is to have a pattern, which is as wide as the glove itself.  It has 2 sides: lefts side for the upper hand, right side for the inner hand. The left one is a self-made one, the right one is nr 25 from the yellow pattern Stitch World Book.

In case you are using this pattern, don’t forget to reflect the pattern on the machine with button 1, when you start knitting the second glove!.

The layout of the pattern goes perfectly along with my size (7 to 7,5)

The swatch in Faire Isle with tension 6

10 cm = 35 rows/ 10 cm = 32 stitches

The swatch in rounds MW6/6-I

10 cm = 40 rows/ 10 cm = 37 stitches.

Note:   further down I am saying “Pic up one more stitch out of the transverse thread”             That means to increase one stitch!

For a better understanding here some general explanations and a graphic of what we are going to do.

Red are the parts you will knit (9)

Green are the rows before decreasing

Black are the number of stitches

Part 1: You start with a ribbing, however you like it (1/1 or 2/2)

The number of needles is equal to the number of needles you need at the widest part of the hand right under the fingers (circumference)

Part 2: you knit on the mainbed in Faire Isle technique until the beginning of the smallest finger.

Part 3 is the small finger itself, you knit it in rounds with the ribber. Therefore you first knit with waste yarn all those needles which are not needed, each side separated from the other. 14 needles stay in the middle. 7 of them tranfer to the ribber and do the small finger.

For doing part 4 you bring back those stitches which have waste yarn. Half of them to the main bed, second half to the ribber, knit 6 rows in rounds.

Part 5, 6 and 7 are the 3 remaining fingers which are done like the small one (part3).

Part 8 is that part which gives the thumb the possibility to move and it’s worked in between the seem, like a little triangle. We call it a “ Daumenspickel” and because I could not find a translation, I will use this word, ok?

Finally we do part 9, the rest of the thumb, again knitted in rounds.

Now I start the instruction itself with the fitting measurements for my hand which you can easily adjust. Just paint your hand on a piece of paper, measure it and recalculate with your gauge.

The circumference of my hand is 19,5 cm,  that’s 62 stitches.

Part 1:

Knit the ribbing you like best for 29 rows or more in case you want it to be longer. Knit one more row with a bigger tension.

I used 3/3 with II and for the last one 4-4 with I. Carriage ends at right side. Transfer all stitches to main bed, change to main bed sinker plate, tension to 6, second color into the main feeder.

Part 2

RC 000..

Knit 1 row with color 2, Carriage is left.

Prepare for Faire isle: KC, call up your pattern and knit 1 row to the right. Push faire isle button on carriage and change the yarn: Nr 1 in the main feeder (A), nr 2 in B.

Knit 2 rows.

Put a mark at both sides of the outsides with a piece of yarn (later here starts the Daumenspickel)

Go on knitting until row 23. Mark again the row with a piece of yarn (here ends the Daumenspickel)

Go on knitting until the chart is finished and the row counter shows 37 rows.

Switch off the machine, and knit 2 more rows plain with color 2.  row counter on 39, carriage left.

Push all needles from 7 left – 31 right to E, set carriage on H and knit the rest of the needles by hand with a nylon cord, hang some extra weights in and knit than about 10 rows with contrast yarn(waste yarn).

Do the same at the opposite side from 8 right -31 right.

Alternatively you can transfer the stitches to a fine circular hand knitting needle. Just get the stitches off the needles.

14 needles and stitches in the middle stay in work. (7-0-7)

Part 3- the small finger

Get the ribber ready for knitting in rounds and transfer 7 of these 14 stitches to the ribberbed.

Pic up one more stitch out of the transverse thread to the ring finger-side onto the next empty needle

(increase 1 stitch)  on both beds!

Knit 44 rows round.

Decrease with the 2 eye transfer tool one stitch on each side (all in all 4  stitches!), knit 2 rows, repeat decreasing until there are 4 stitches left. Break the yarn and pull the yarn end through the open stitches.

Part 4: Before knitting the other fingers:

Transfer all stitches with waste yarn back into machine, half on the ribber, other half on the main bed.

Knit 6 rows round

Now you have again the choice either to knit with waste yarn  to get the work again off the machine

or to take the stitches down with fine circular needles

or to go on working with needles in E and both carriages at H.

I tested all methods. The first 2 methods take a bit longer, but are a lot easier to knit. However you decide…now it’s time to knit the fingers.

Part 5: the forefinger:

Per bed 7 stitches and 1 stitch out of the transverse thread to the middle finger ( increase 1 stitch on both beds). If you work with needles in E, first move the 7 stitches one needle to the right, get than the additional stitch on both beds and knit 54 rows round before decreasing. Finish like the little finger.

Part 6: the middle finger

8 stitches per bed, plus one on each bed, 62 rows round, decrease and finish

Part 7: ring finger

8 stitches per bed, plus one on each bed, 54 rows, decrease and finish

Part 8: the Daumenspickel: ( triangle for the thumb)

Place the glove with the ribber up into the space between the bed- fingers to you, wrong side to be seen. Carriage is right. Change sinker plate to knit on main bed only. Cast on one stitch on needle 1 left (1 yellow).

On top of this stitch put the first stitch after the ribbed part out of the left edge. There are two stitches on the needle now!

Knit on row to the right.

Hang on top the first stitch after the ribbed part out of the left seam . Knit one row to the left.

Watch carefully that the yarn is under the needle and in front of the hanged up stitches!

Repeat this procedure and bring all side stitches to this one needle one after the other until you reached the first mark.

Move one more needle to working position (nr 1 right = 1 green), hang up the marked stitch out of the right edge, knit one row.

*Bring needle 2 left in B position, hang up the next stitch out of the edge, knit to the right. Do the same on the right side and knit to the left.

Now you only hang the stitch of the border on top and knit one row. No increasing here!

Repeat this on the right side.*

Repeat from * to * until you have reached your 2. mark and you have got 18 needles working.

Part 9: thumb

9 stitches to the front bed, 1 stitch out of the transverse thread and 1 out of the edge.

Knit 2 rows, decrease the stitches on each bed that you have taken out of the edge and go on knitting until row 38. Decrease as before and finish.

Congratulation…you made it. All that is left on work is closing the seem and getting rid of all the threads. J

The second glove can be done like the first, but please…don’t forget to push variation button 1 in case you are working with two different charts for the in- and outside of the hand, like you see here.

Parts		What is it?	My size  7-7,5	Your own size
Part 1 and 2	a	Circumference hand, cast on	19,5 cm = 62 stitches
Part 2,  rows	b	Lenght middle hand	10,5 cm = 37 rows
Part 3 rows	c	Length small finger	6 cm = 44 rows until decrease
Part4 rows	d	Length till beginning fingers	1 cm = 6 rows
Part 5 rows	e	Lenght fore finger	7,5 cm = 54 rows until decrease
Part 6 rows	f	Lenght middle finger	8,8 cm = 62 rows until decrease
Part 7 rows	g	Lenght ring finger	7,5 cm = 54 rows until decrease
Part 8 rows Set 1.mark	h	Begin triangle thumb	at Row nr 4
Part 8 rows	i	Lenght triangle thumb	19 Rh
Set 2.mark			at row nr 23
Part 9 rows	j	Lenght thumb	6 cm = 38 Rh rows until decrease

©IngridCojocaru.

This pattern is for private use only. It’s not allowed to publish or to sell it.